Mastering the Art of Sleeve-Making: The 5 Stunts Behind HST's Signature Sleeves

At HST, we approach sleeve pattern drafting with precision and artistry, striving to incorporate five essential "stunts" into every design: Cap, Curve, Twist, Elbow, and Forward. These elements ensure our sleeves fit seamlessly, follow natural arm movements, and achieve a polished silhouette. Here’s a breakdown of our process.

Transforming a Single-Piece Sleeve into a Double-Piece Sleeve

Before performing the stunts, we convert a single-piece sleeve into a double-piece sleeve. This crucial step allows greater flexibility in shaping and structure.

1. Cap: Perfecting the Sleeve’s Crown

The cap is the top area of the sleeve that attaches to the armhole. There are two main tailoring approaches: English and Italian. We prefer the English method at HST because of its structured and refined results.

To achieve the desired effect, the sleeve cap length is slightly longer than the armhole. This allows for gathering, creating a smooth, elegant curve that subtly bulges at the cap.

2. Curve: Embracing the Arm’s Natural Shape

Viewed from the side, men’s and women’s arms naturally curve forward. We introduce a curve to our sleeve patterns' inseam and outseam to mirror this.

The degree of this curve can vary depending on the individual’s arm shape, ensuring a custom fit for every client.

3. Twist: Adding Dynamic Flow

When viewed from the front, a subtle twist occurs from the elbow to the wrist, especially in men’s arms. This twist is less noticeable in women’s arms but is critical for a tailored men's jacket.

To create the twist, we reposition a specific fold line in the pattern, adjusting the "eye" of the sleeve. This adjustment maintains the original shape when attached to the armhole but introduces a visible twist at the cuff area.

Combined with the curve, the sleeve achieves three essential stunts: Cap, Twist, and Curve.

4. Elbow: Enhancing Flexibility

The elbow stunt works in tandem with the twist. As the wrist twists, the elbow naturally bends outward. This adjustment is more prominent in men’s sleeves.

To accommodate this bending, we add a wedge to the elbow area of the pattern, increasing surface area while maintaining a smooth, natural look.

5. Forward: Achieving the Right Swing

The forward stunt reflects how the arm naturally swings forward when viewed from the side.

To achieve this, we cut along the bicep on the top piece of the sleeve pattern and tilt the cap to the necessary angle. A wedge is then added to fill the gap, ensuring the grainline and midpoint of the sleeve remain uninterrupted.

The HST Standard: Precision and Pride

By combining these five stunts—Cap, Curve, Twist, Elbow, and Forward—we craft sleeves that move with the wearer and elevate our jackets' overall fit and aesthetic. Every HST jacket incorporates these elements, and we remain committed to refining our techniques for even better results.

We hope this breakdown helps you appreciate the art of sleeve-making! Stay tuned for more insights into tailoring, and until next time—see ya!